Right, so over 1 year since my last post, and I've decided that I really do need to keep this writing thing going. But the idea of re-writing about things that happened a year ago is daunting. So I gave myself a deadline; that before I head to Dublin next weekend I need to write about the main places I've been over the last year and a half, and fill in the gaps later.
So - picking up where I left off - Lisbon, Portugal.
I don't know how to explain the difference between these two cities. Madrid felt dark and gothic, whereas Lisbon was so colourful, light, and the city itself felt so happy. Checking into my hostel (award winning - Travellers House). The guy at reception was by far the most passionate I've ever met. He was on the verge of tears when he sat down to go through the tourist map with me - because he was losing his voice and struggling to emphasise how beautiful or must-see some of the places were. My room was probably the nicest I'd had so far - complete with reading light, lock & safe under my bed, and no extra charge for towels - #winning.
I remember spending a day walking (well, I'd call it hiking!) through the cobbled streets of the castle district, in search of a viewpoint. The graffiti in this place was so different to what I'd seen elsewhere. Not just delinquents spraying 'John loves Stacey', or 'Jessie is a sl*t', but this was art.
I can't exactly remember the order of things, but I met a few aussies and kiwis in the communal area, and the hostel activity on this first night was a walking tour to the castle district. What I hadn't realised when booking this trip to Lisbon, was that it was the Santo Antonio festival (the patron saint for Lisbon). Which means that the entire city turns into a party. All the people that live in the old city (castle area) open up their doors and terraces and blare their music, offering drinks and food out of their windows, pop-up bars and dj's everywhere. Every back alley and side street was filled with people. It was like being lost in a maze, but instead of trying to find your way out - all you wanted to do is get lost deeper and deeper. The best part - everyone was HAPPY. Our little crew was pumped, and the locals were in love with their city. I remember seeing this gorgeous older couple dancing in the middle of the street, in their own little world, and thinking that they reminded me of my parents.
One of the must-do's for Lisbon, was to taste a Pastel de nata - AKA a portugese custard tart. These aren't just any old tart, and I didn't want to try them at just any old place. I wanted the best. So I ran to the neighbouring town of 'Belem', where the cafe famous for it's award-winning Pastel de nata's was: Casa Pasteis De Belem. And Oh-my-god. For about €1 each (I bought 5), they were a-mazing. I guess this leads to -
Rule # 3rd: Eat local food.
Near the hostel is a seafront square/plaza rimmed with cafes, restaurants etc, and one of these was a wine exhibition offering free wine tastings every hour. So my new kiwi friend and I went along for one. The wine was amazing, and after the tastings we were invited by 2 US marines to share a bottle with them. So the four of us spent an hour or two, sitting inside this wine expo, getting p1ssed. One of the guys was super excited because he'd just found out his wife was pregnant - and they were on their way home soon;the other was married with kids (but a sleeze). We ended up out for dinner with them at a hostel-recommended restaurant, and all I can remember is that the food was delish, the wine was just as good, and the marines paid for our meals :D
I may as well throw another one in:
Rule # 4: Drink like a local
On my last night, it was the most surreal thing: just before 9pm, the hostel guy told us all to take a glass of our wine and head down the sea-front square. The city was going to perform for us. Not knowing what he meant, a few of us gathered down at the square and waited...Along with hundreds of other locals & tourists. I don't know how it was done, or what the meaning of it was - but the city played us music. What I mean is, that the church bells chimed while the ships at sea blew their horns and the nearby train whistled: all coordinated and beautiful. I have no idea where all the different sounds were coming from, or how it was all orchestrated... But in awe, we all fell silent to listen; this is my favourite memory of Lisbon.
✌
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